Monday 9 July 2012

Does my bum look big in this?

What is with the craze for short suit jackets at the moment?  Everywhere you look you can see grown men in suits with their bums hanging out the bottom of their jackets.  The bottom part of a jacket is called the seat, therefore it should cover a gentleman's seat not expose it. 
This indecent exposure is the consequence of high street brands jumping on the tailoring bandwagon and imposing their modernistic view of tailoring on the world.  Proportion wise it may work with a skinny frame and narrow lapels, but it will never be the correct way to wear a suit and if you put a well fitted suit on you are wearing something that represents generations of working out what works best.  A suit should give the illusion of an athletic physique; long legs, fitted waist and strong chest.  Short jackets defeat this purpose completely. 
Any tinkering that is done to the silhouette of a suit is usually fashion led and doesn't have the longevity of garments which are made in the time honoured tradition of tailoring and not following fashion trends.  Mods in the 60's wore their jackets short, bum freezer style, looked cool back then but not now, fashions move on, style is timeless. 
Bottom line, if you can see your bum when wearing your suit jacket then I'm afraid you look like a lanky fool who borrowed a school boys jacket, not the elegant well dressed man you should wish to look like.  Put your arse away you scruffy git!

Made in England - worth spending an extra few bob

When you buy clothing with a Made in England label, what do you think of......quality, trust, heritage? 
These are all qualities you would come to expect when you see those 3 words, but of course there is literally a price to pay for the confidence that comes from purchasing clothing which has been produced in England.

As instead of out sourcing work to foreign lands where there is an abundance of cheap labour and manufacture costs are low, when something is produced in this country it is subjected to a rigorous process which is overseen by skilled tradesman and artisans who are extremely proud of their craft.  On visits to suit manufacturers and cloth mills, I have seen first hand the level of perfection these people strive to achieve consistently on a daily basis.  It is engrained in them and it is people like these that helped to make Britain great and continue to spread the reputation of garment manufacture in this country as being amongst the best in the world.
Garment manufacture in this country has been sadly unsupported for so long that there just isn't the same number of factories or skilled people wanting to work in them as there was in the past.  Meaning that the manufacturers that are left, are much in demand and are fairly small operations.  Small specialised factories with little competition means prices get pushed up. 


Yes it may be a bit more pricey to buy a suit made in England than it would to buy a suit made in say
China, but you will inherently be buying a better garment as we set the standard in this country as to how things should be made and others copy and catch up but we will always have that head start and level of consistency that make buying British worth the extra few quid.  And maybe more importantly you can wear your clothes with a clear conscience knowing you own something of quality and are doing your bit to support British manufacture. 

Friday 9 March 2012

Charley Boy!


Big pressure being having the title the Prince of Wales.  You have to live up to the reputation of the role; that is to be a stylish authority on classic British gentleman's dress.
Up until the last decade or so he always wore what was appropriate and correct, but now he uses imagination with his choice of cloth for his suits and shirt, tie and hanky combinations.  He also now wears his clothes with more confidence.
He's grown into his role, not only as a future king, but as a symbol and guardian of classic British style and tradition.  Everyone is starting to appreciate the values of a double breasted suit but he's been wearing them for donkeys.  Always worn correctly (bottom button on the jacket done up if double vented-the vents allow enough space for movement) and looking completely natural wearing his suits - he wearing the suit not the suit wearing him.




Looking back at British history, over the years the owners of the title the Prince of Wales have been gentlemen who took great care and interest in their appearance.  Charles's ancestors King Edward the 7th and King Edward the 8th were both the Prince of Wales before becoming king.
King Edward the 7th was extremely fashion conscious.  Always looking his best when seen in public, he invented many of the style options we still use to this day such as turn-ups on trousers and the dinner jacket.  Then there was Edward the 8th who was just as influential and was renowned for pushing forward with his style ideas and having a modernistic view of dressing.


Charles isn't as a fashion forward as his predecessors, but he knows how to dress.  Albeit conservatively and inoffensive, subtly the way he dresses is the most manly display of elegance and style you will see anyone else wearing today.  Never looked better than at the London memorial for 9/11 last year.  Understated but stylish and completely appropriate.




Of course he has the resource to look this good, we can't all go to Anderson and Sheppard for our suits.  But he's now got the experience and sense of pride to always look his best.  Easily the best dressed man in Britain.