What's the difference and why is it important?
The canvas within a jacket, the material in between the cloth and lining, is what gives a jacket shape and determines how a cloth hangs. With a half canvas construction the canvassing goes down from the shoulders to the outside front pockets and is in most cases stuck to the fabric of the jacket. Because it is stuck on, the cloth isn't allowed to move very freely, which is fine with heavier hard wearing cloths where the main concern isn't for the cloth to move but to hold its shape. Most important with day to day work suits that will need to be able to take a high amount of wear and punishment. Half canvas jackets are machine stitched, again resulting in not much movement as the stitches are tight and rigid. More suited to tougher, less fine cloths.
Then there's full canvas which is closer to Bespoke in terms of construction, it has canvassing that goes all the way to the hem of the jacket. So it holds its shape better and instead of being stuck on it is hand sewn in so it moves with the fabric (also known as a floating canvas). This results in a garment that is more comfortable, allows for more ease of movement and as anything that is hand sewn, will have greater longevity. This construction is far more suitable for finer and lighter cloths as it will allow the cloth to show off its ability to move and drape as it should do. The reason for wanting a finer and lighter cloth in the first place.
The only reason not to buy a full canvas suit is price, as it is usually at least twice the cost of a half canvas suit. But as always you get what you pay for. If you choose a lightweight or fine cloth then full canvas is the way to go, otherwise you totally jeopardise the reason you chose a more expensive cloth. You want the cloth to be able to move and show off its luxurious qualities.
Try on a half canvas then a full canvas jacket and you'll see and feel what I'm going on about.....Full canvas is better isn't it?
How would you like to pay sir, cash?
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