Half Canvas or Full Canvas suits?

What's the difference and why is it important?

The canvas within a jacket, the material in between the cloth and lining, is what gives a jacket shape and determines how a cloth hangs.  With a half canvas construction the canvassing goes down from the shoulders to the outside front pockets and is in most cases stuck to the fabric of the jacket.  Because it is stuck on, the cloth isn't allowed to move very freely, which is fine with heavier hard wearing cloths where the main concern isn't for the cloth to move but to hold its shape.  Most important with day to day work suits that will need to be able to take a high amount of wear and punishment.  Half canvas jackets are machine stitched, again resulting in not much movement as the stitches are tight and rigid.  More suited to tougher, less fine cloths.

Then there's full canvas which is closer to Bespoke in terms of construction, it has canvassing that goes all the way to the hem of the jacket.  So it holds its shape better and instead of being stuck on it is hand sewn in so it moves with the fabric (also known as a floating canvas).  This results in a garment that is more comfortable, allows for more ease of movement and as anything that is hand sewn, will have greater longevity.  This construction is far more suitable for finer and lighter cloths as it will allow the cloth to show off its ability to move and drape as it should do.  The reason for wanting a finer and lighter cloth in the first place.
The only reason not to buy a full canvas suit is price, as it is usually at least twice the cost of a half canvas suit.  But as always you get what you pay for.  If you choose a lightweight or fine cloth then full canvas is the way to go, otherwise you totally jeopardise the reason you chose a more expensive cloth.  You want the cloth to be able to move and show off its luxurious qualities.
Try on a half canvas then a full canvas jacket and you'll see and feel what I'm going on about.....Full canvas is better isn't it?
How would you like to pay sir, cash?

Creative Tradesmen

Been back working on Savile Row for a few months.  Met a few cutters from up and down the row, young and old.
They've all got Thames Estuary accents.  Bit east London, bit south, proper.  Not geezers, they're above that.  These are men who chose a trade and have over the years been striving to develop and perfect their art and are at the top of the tree.
They could be plumbers or builders, but they're cutters.  If I came to Savile row from a foreign land to purchase a bespoke suit then I'd want to meet one of these guys.  You wouldn't wanna fuck about with them or question them.  They know what they're doing and they do it well.  The Americans must go bandy when they meet them on their trips to New York, Chicago etc...

It's amazing and something to be proud of that the tradition of a Great British craft is carried out by Great British men.

Britons, never, never, never shall be slaves!

Luvly Jubly, Innit!

Del Boy's fucking hilarious and has a heart of gold underneath all the wide boy act.  He's iconic and to me has always dressed like a don.  He hasn't got a pot to piss in but always looks the nuts, except in later series when he looked proper down on his luck..sad.
Flat cap, Gabicci knitwear, gold chain, sheepskin.  He looked cool as fuck.  What working class dressing is all about.  Projecting image, wearing clothes more expensive than you can afford-getting deals my son, never pay full price.

He knew how to wear a suit, loved a double breasted, 80's style (Super 130's Italian cloth), but still looking Britishly sharp.  Whoever was in charge of wardrobe on Only Fools and Horses deserves a BAFTA, they did an amazing job.
Don't look as his clothes as a costume, they communicated what he was about...South London geezer on the up.  Aspirational.  Where are we without aspirations?  He's up there with Prince Charles for me, British style icon.  A dying breed, almost extinct in fact.
Actually, even Boycie looked good in a wanky sort of way, Rodney always looked like shit though.
Say no more son, say no more.....